My journey through Japan was a whirlwind of ancient temples, bustling cities, serene landscapes, and unforgettable culinary experiences. After landing in Tokyo, we checked into the Park Hotel, which offers great views of the city. We visited Yasukuni-jinja Shrine, a Shinto temple dedicated to those who died in service of Japan. Dinner at Ginza Bairin Main Shop meant delicious tonkatsu, crisply fried pork cutlet. Then Lauren and I strolled through the Ginza neighborhood. We decided to grab drinks at Beer Lupulin, a tiny bar with a good selection of draft beers and Japanese whiskies.

Day two offered a deeper dive into Tokyo’s diverse neighborhoods. A walking tour led us through Nippori and Ueno, showcasing the serene Hongyoji temple and the bustling Yanaka Senbei rice cracker shop, where I sampled freshly made senbei. The Kyōō-ji temple provided a moment of reflection and interesting history. During the Boshin War, fought between the ruling Tokugawa Shogunate and those seeking to restore the emperor to power, forces loyal to the shogun took refuge in the temple. Bullet holes are still visible in the temple’s wooden gate. Next we enjoyed a delicious soba noodle lunch at Kawamura.

A leisurely stroll through Ueno Park, a sprawling green space, led to the Ueno Toshogu Shrine, which was established in 1627 and boasts intricate carvings, gold doors, and a view of Kanei-ji Gojunoto (the Five Story Pagoda). Returning to the city center, we stopped by the Imperial Palace East Gardens for a brief glimpse of the palace. The evening was capped off with expertly crafted cocktails at Folklore and a delightful dinner at Filemone.

The Tsukiji Fish Market was our first stop on day three. The market has been moved from its historic location, but its energy is still palpable and it still offers a vast array foods and ingredients. After lunch at the market we visited TeamLab Planets, an experiential digital art museum that combines lights, water, and sound effects to create interactive installations. In the evening we took he subway out to Meiji Jingu, a massive temple complex dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Dinner at The Bellwood was another culinary highlight.

The next morning we left Tokyo and began our exploration of the Japanese countryside. We stopped by the vibrant Sensō-ji Buddhist temple, Tokyo’s oldest temple dating to the seventh century, before boarding a train to Nikko. The iconic Shinkyō Bridge, a beautifully arched red bridge, welcomed us to this mountain town. Then we set out to explore the Nikko Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site, were breathtaking. Nikkō Tōshogū, the lavishly decorated mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, was particularly impressive. Rin’nōji Taiyū-in and Taiyūin Hōtō offered further glimpses into the rich history of the region. Then we walked along the Kanmangafuchi Abyss, a river gorge lined with stone statues of Jizo, a Buddhist Bodhisattva who cares for the deceased. Then we drove to the KAI Kinugawa resort, a beautiful hotel with an excellent onsen, Japan’s traditional hot springs.

The waterfalls of Nikko National Park took center stage on day five. The Kegon Waterfalls tumble down a steep cliff below the town of Nikko. We admired them from above, then took the elevator down to the viewing platform at their base. Next we drove through town to the Ryuzu Cascades, a network of small waterfalls nestled amidst vibrant autumn foliage. From there we bega a hike through Senjōgahara Marshland, which offered panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Then we had a tasty udon lunch at Ryuzu no Chaya near the cascades. At the end of the day, we rode the Akechidaira Ropeway offered breathtaking views of the Kegon Waterfalls, Nikko, and Lake Chūzenji.

In the morning we drove to Lake Kawaguchi and the base of Mount Fuji. Arakurayama Sengen Park, with its iconic pagoda and stunning view of Mount Fuji, is one of the best spots for photos of the mountain. The weather around Mount Fuji is notoriously bad, and clouds threatened as we arrived. Fortunately we were able to catch a glimpse of the mountain before the weather closed in. Then we pushed on to HOSHINOYA Fuji, a spectacular hotel that offers incredible views of the mountain, excellent food, and a beautiful setting in the forests above the lake.

Unfortunately the next morning dawned overcast and rainy, completely obscuring Mount Fuji from view. So we visited the Kubota Itchiku Art Museum. Kubota was an artist who rediscovered a lost technique for dyeing textiles dating to the 15th- or 16th-century called tsujigahana. Kubota created masterful collections of kimonos. When we visited, the museum was showcasing his kimonos that celebrated Mount Fuji during each of the four seasons. The kimonos were stunningly gorgeous, shimmering with light (unfortunately photos aren’t allowed). Drinks and snacks at Hidamaricoffee offered a cozy respite from the rain. Then we returned to the hotel for a nature walk in the forest and dinner.

Our patience was rewarded the next day. The clouds cleared, revealing Mount Fuji in all its glory, though the summit was snow-free, a rare occurrence for early November. The first snow of the autumn fell on Mount Fuji on November 6, the latest initial snowfall in recorded history. A morning kayak on Lake Kawaguchi provided a unique perspective of the mountain. We also strolled through Oishi Park, with its colorful flowers, for more opportunities to admire the iconic peak. In the afternoon saw we drove to Hiroshima, where we checked into the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima and enjoyed a delicious dinner at Masaki.

Day nine was dedicated to exploring Hiroshima and Miyajima Island. Miyajima, with its iconic floating torii gate of Itsukushima Jinja Shrine, was a magical place. Exploring the shops and streets of Miyajima was a delightful experience. We enjoyed lunch of okonomiyaki, Hiroshima’s signature dish, a savory pancake cooked on a teppanyaki grill, at Okonomiyaki ChinChiKuRin. We returned to the city center and visited the Atomic Bomb Dome (the remnants of a building devastated by the blast) and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (which houses numerous artifacts from the bombing). We stopped for a quick dinner at kokkio ekie for Korean fried chicken.

The next day we took a train to Himeji, home to the magnificent Himeji Castle. A guided tour of the castle provided fascinating insights into its history and design. From Himeji, we continued on to Kyoto, the cultural heart of Japan. We checked into The Chapter Kyoto and enjoyed a delicious French dinner at Bistro Yanagihara.

Over the following two days we explored the countless temples and gardens of Kyoto. Walking tours immersed us in the city’s atmosphere. From the serene Zenne-in Temple to the vibrant Fushimi Inari Yotsuji, each site offered a unique perspective on Kyoto’s history and culture. We enjoyed a delicious ramen lunch at Tonkotsu-Ramen Zururu anda traditional meal at Cafe & Kitchen Matsukichi. Evenings were spent enjoying drinks at atmospheric bars like Bar K6 and Bar Cask and savoring exquisite dinners at Washoku Haru and Kyoto Tempura Ten no Meshi Gionhonten. The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest was a magical experience, and the golden pavilion of Kinkaku-ji was breathtaking.

A day trip to Nara on day thirteen introduced us to the friendly wild deer roaming Nara Park. We visited saw temples and shrines around the town. Our visit culminated with the impressive Tōdai-ji Temple, originally built in the eighth century and home to the largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana. We enjoyed a delicious soba noodle lunch at Bunraku Nara-higasimukidori, then took the train back to Kyoto.

In the afternoon we visited Nijō Castle, a complex of well-restored rooms that were the site of the shogun’s return of authority to the emperor. We had an amazing dinner at Kobe Beef Steak Mouriya Gion, one of the best meals of my life. Then we visited L’Escamoteur, a bar offering tasty cocktails created by bartenders via alchemy and magic.

Our final full day in Kyoto began with a visit to Kiyomizu-dera Temple, perched on a hillside overlooking the city. After lunch we enjoyed a traditional tea ceremony at Camellia Garden. From Kyoto we took a train to Kanazawa and checked into the Hyatt Centric Kanazawa.

The next day we explored Kanazawa, a city known for its well-preserved samurai district and Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan’s three most beautiful landscape gardens. We visited the Kinpakuya Sakuda Gold Leaf Shop & Workshop, where we learned about the intricate art of gold leaf application. We strolled through the geisha district and visited the Geisha House Shima. We also stopped by the D. T. Suzuki Museum, dedicated to the great Buddhist thinker and a popularizer of Zen Buddhism. A ramen lunch at Ippudo provided a quick and delicious break. The Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence offered a glimpse into the life of a samurai family. Dinner at Fuwari and drinks at Furansu Cocktail Bar capped off the day.

The next morning we rented a car and drove to the traditional alpine village of Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its unique gassho-style farmhouses. The farmhouses have distinctive steeply-angled roofs covered in thick thatch to insulate them during the cold winters. We visited the Wada House and explored the village before continuing on to Takayama, another charming town in the Japanese Alps. We checked into IORI Takyama, a traditional townhouse, and enjoyed sake tasting at Maruhyaku and dinner at Takumiya Yasukawa.

Lauren and I drove to the Mount Yake trailhead the next morning and hiked to the summit. The hike was challenging, about 2,800 feet of elevation over about three miles (each way), but the views were rewarding, even though the clouds obscured them at times. We even encountered some snow monkeys on the drive. Dinner at Uemura was another culinary highlight; chef Satoshi is an organic farmer who creates unforgettable dishes out of vegetables from his farm and the best local ranches and fishermen.

The following day we visited Kamikōchi, a stunning mountain resort area. We walked along the Azusa River, enjoying the pristine natural beauty. Returning to town, a visit to the Funasaka Sake Brewery provided a taste of local sake. I walked through Shiroyama Park in the evening for a spectacular sunset over the surrounding mountains. We ate dinner at Pizzeria Hiranograno. Then we adjourned for drinks at Cinq, a small bar with no menu, though the friendly bartender created delicious drinks for us.

We took the train to Matsumoto in the morning, home to the impressive Matsumoto Castle. After visiting the castle, we took a taiko drumming class, learning the basics of this traditional Japanese art form. Beer at Matsumoto Brewery Tap Room Nakamachi was a refreshing treat. Then we retired to the beautiful Matsumoto Jujo hotel for a delicious dinner and a fitting farewell to the Japanese Alps.

The next morning we took the train to Tokyo and checked back into the Park Hotel. A walking tour with provided a deeper understanding of Tokyo’s diverse neighborhoods and cultural traditions. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Hamasoba, which served the best ramen I had during the entire trip. We also visited Kiyosumi Gardens and Fukagawa Fudou-dō temple for a Buddhist fire ceremony. Our last dinner in Japan was outstanding tonkatsu at Tonkatsu Suzushin. We enjoyed some fantastic cocktails and whisky at C-Shell. Then we visted Vowz, a bar founded by Buddhist monks who serve creative drinks interspersed with Buddhist chants.

On our final day in the country, we visited the Tokyo National museum, which houses an impressive collection of historical artifacts and artwork from thoughout Japanese history. In the afternoon we drove out to the airport for our flight home.