New Zealand has been at the top of my travel wish list for a long time now. It’s known for its stunning natural beauty, adventure activities, wildlife, Māori culture, and world-class food and wine. I spent three weeks during December and January of 2025–2026 exploring the country.

The thirteen-and-a-half-hour flight from San Francisco to Auckland was the longest I’ve ever taken. We arrived in New Zealand a little groggy but excited to explore, immediately boarding a second flight to Kerikeri. Once there, we grabbed lunch and a flight of beers at PhatHouse Brewing Co. (our favorite was the porter).

We then continued on to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the site of the historic signing of a treaty between the British Crown and Māori chiefs on February 6, 1840. As one of New Zealand’s founding documents, the treaty remains controversial, in part because the English concept of “sovereignty” was translated in Te Reo Māori to kāwanatanga (governance) and tino rangatiratanga (chieftainship/stewardship). Consequently, Māori chiefs believed they were entering into a partnership and retaining self-determination, while the British viewed the agreement as ceding full control.

We took a guided tour of the grounds, which featured impressive Māori waka (traditional war canoes) and the home of James Busby, the British Resident who co-drafted the treaty. We also enjoyed a powerful Māori cultural demonstration. I volunteered to be the chief of our visiting “tribe,” meaning the Māori hosts welcomed us in traditional fashion, and I was called upon to give an impromptu speech on behalf of the visitors. Afterward, we watched traditional music and dance, then explored the excellent museums on-site.

Leaving the treaty grounds, we drove to the historic town of Russell, in the far north of the North Island, and checked into the Bellrock Lodge. We then headed to Sage Restaurant at Paroa Bay Winery for dinner. The restaurant offers sweeping views of the bay, where I enjoyed a fresh garden salad and a delicious, locally caught fish.

The next day was Christmas Day, and most of Russell was shut down for the holiday. We took a boat tour of the Bay of Islands, though the weather didn’t cooperate, remaining cloudy with intermittent rain. Still, we sailed past several scenic islands and made it out to the famous Hole in the Rock, even navigating right through the passage. The boat dropped us at Urupukapuka Island, where we grabbed a quick snack and hiked up a hill for a view of the bay as the weather cleared a bit, before catching the boat back to Russell.

In the afternoon, we walked east across the peninsula from our hotel to Long Beach, a beautiful stretch of sand. We then returned to the hotel to freshen up before grabbing drinks at Butterfish and Seaside. Christmas dinner was at the historic Duke of Marlborough Hotel—New Zealand’s oldest licensed hotel. While the heritage building is charming, the dinner itself was unfortunately mediocre.

The next morning, we grabbed coffee and breakfast sandwiches at Hell Hole, an awesome local spot whose name pays homage to Russell’s once-sordid 19th-century reputation as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific.” We then drove back to the airport and flew to Auckland. After checking into the InterContinental, we had a fantastic seafood lunch at Shucker Brothers and set off on a walking tour of the city, exploring historic sites, local parks, the university, and other points of interest.

We had an excellent dinner at Ahi—savoring fresh sourdough, fire-roasted leeks, and a delectable 400-gram Southern Stations Wagyu sirloin. Afterward, Lauren and I walked over to Truth or Dare, a creative and intimate cocktail bar, for a nightcap.

In the morning, we caught the ferry to Devonport, a charming seaside suburb of Auckland, before boarding another boat to Waiheke Island. We stopped for lunch at The Heke (enjoying their fried chicken and a flight of local whisky). Waiheke is famous for its vineyards, so we did tastings at Tantalus Estate (excellent wines and a classy indoor tasting room) and Postage Stamp Wines (more great pours in a beautiful outdoor garden). We took the ferry back to Auckland and finished the day with a fantastic Mediterranean meal at Alma, featuring leeks, asparagus, and fresh market fish.

The next day, we picked up rental cars and drove east to the Coromandel Peninsula. We stopped for an excellent lunch of fish and chips at the Coromandel Brewing Company’s Pour House in Hahei. From there, we rode a water taxi to Cathedral Cove, a long stretch of sandy beach divided by a dramatic, arched cavern. We swam, jumped off the rocks into the ocean, and then taxied back to town to check into our Airbnb.

For dinner, we took a short, scenic ferry ride from our lodgings in Cooks Beach to Salt in Whitianga. Unfortunately, the ambient marina views outshone the food, as my grilled snapper arrived cold.

The next morning dawned with pouring rain—hardly ideal for a coastal getaway. We made the best of it by spending the morning and early afternoon at The Lost Spring, a relaxing thermal hot spring and day spa in Whitianga, where we also had lunch.

Later, we walked along the shore to Shakespeare Cliff and Lonely Bay; both were stunning, though the persistent drizzle and low clouds limited the expansive views. Lauren and I had a wonderful dinner at KaiZen at Go Vino (sharing Bhel puri and Balinese fish fillets). Afterward, we drove to Hot Water Beach, a unique geothermal spot where hot springs bubble up directly through the sand. At low tide, we dug out our own temporary spa pool, letting the hot spring water mix with the cool ocean swells.

Leaving Cooks Beach, we navigated the gravel twists of the 309 Road, stopping at the Waiau Kauri Grove. Kauri are among the largest and longest-living trees in the world, and the specimens in the grove are truly massive, estimated to be between 600 and 800 years old.

We pushed on to Coromandel Town to explore the shops, then drove south to Thames, stopping at a coastal lookout for an expansive view. After lunch at the Coromandel Oyster Company, we returned to Auckland to catch an evening flight to Wellington. We checked into the Sofitel, then enjoyed a spectacular dinner at Koji (highlighted by their famous yellow curry beef donut, charcoal-roasted broccoli, and udon noodles with Wagyu). We finished the night with a craft cocktail at Crumpet, a cozy bar next to Wellington’s Opera House.

The following morning, we rode the Wellington Cable Car. From the summit, I ran across the city and up Mount Victoria, where the rain briefly cleared to offer a sweeping view of the harbor and city. After running back to the hotel and taking a quick shower, we visited the Lady Norwood Rose Garden and Old St. Paul’s, a historic wooden cathedral dating to 1865. We poked around some local shops, then grabbed a snack and a pint at Little Beer Quarter, a fantastic craft beer bar showcasing local brews. In the afternoon, we visited the museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, which houses incredible exhibits on the country’s rich history.

We sampled some excellent craft beers at Garage Project’s taproom, followed by dinner at Rosella (savoring whipped almond focaccia, bruschetta, Wagyu beef, and some fantastic local wine). Since it was New Year’s Eve, we joined the crowds at Whairepo Lagoon for the city’s celebration. Following a brief 10:00 PM fireworks show, Orchestra Wellington played pop classics until midnight, leading into a spectacular main fireworks display. It was a wonderful, community-focused way to welcome in the New Year.

A short morning flight carried us from Wellington, at the southern tip of the North Island, to Nelson, at the top of the South Island. We had lunch at the Sprig & Fern Tavern, then Lauren and I drove to Nelson Lakes National Park to hike the Lake Rotoiti Loop Track. The weather was misty and damp, but the moody atmosphere of the beech forest was beautiful. Back in Nelson, we enjoyed a casual dinner at Urban Oyster Bar & Eatery before calling it a night.

Early the next morning, we drove to Kaiteriteri Beach to board a catamaran with Abel Tasman Sailing Adventures. We spent the morning sailing through the turquoise waters of Abel Tasman National Park, cruising past Tokangawhā / Split Apple Rock and spotting New Zealand fur seals lounging on the rocky shores of Motuareronui (Adele Island).

The catamaran dropped us at Anchorage Bay, where we began our 12.4-kilometer (roughly 7.7-mile) hike back to Mārahau. It was a stunning coastal walk, with frequent side trails leading down to secluded golden sand beaches. In our opinion, the most picturesque spot was Apple Tree Bay.

Reaching our car around 3:15 PM, we drove to Neudorf Vineyards to taste what turned out to be our favorite wines of the trip. Afterward, we had a fun dinner at the historic Moutere Inn, New Zealand’s oldest pub. Back in Nelson, we rounded out the evening with some local beers at The Free House, a unique pub set inside a beautifully converted 19th-century church.

The next morning, we set off for the South Island’s rugged West Coast. We stopped in Westport for lunch at the historic Criterion Hotel and Pizzeria, then headed south. A stop at the clifftop Irimahuwhero Lookout offered stunning views of the crashing waves. We also visited the famous Pancake Rocks and blowholes at Punakaiki in Paparoa National Park before continuing to Hokitika. We had dinner at the Woodstock Tavern and spent the night at the beautiful Rimu Lodge.

The next day was spent exploring Hokitika’s wild beach and downtown shops, including the workshops of local Westland greenstone (pounamu) carvers. We then drove out to the Hokitika Gorge, walking the loop trail to admire the suspension bridge and the canyon’s impossibly vivid, milky-blue glacial waters.

Upon reaching Franz Josef Glacier village, we stopped for lunch at Snakebite Brewery. Afterward, we visited the West Coast Wildlife Centre to see rowi kiwi, little blue penguins, and tuatara—a remarkable reptile species endemic to New Zealand whose lineage dates back 200 million years. We then walked the forest trail to the Franz Josef Glacier viewpoint; unfortunately, the glacier has retreated so significantly in recent years that it is barely visible from the valley floor. We had a hearty dinner at the Alice May Restaurant and spent the night at the lovely Westwood Lodge.

We had planned a heli-hike on the glacier for the following morning, but unstable weather had washed out the ice paths, forcing a cancellation. Instead, we drove to Lake Matheson, famous for its mirror-like reflections of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. Unfortunately, the elements conspired against us again: thick clouds hid the peaks, and a light breeze ruffled the water’s surface. We also drove to the Fox Glacier viewpoint, managing to catch a brief glimpse of the ice through the parting clouds.

Continuing south to Haast, we grabbed lunch at the Hard Antler Bar & Eatery. We then drove the spectacular Haast Pass Highway, a winding alpine road cut through the Southern Alps. We stopped to stretch our legs at Roaring Billy Falls, Thunder Creek Falls, Fantail Falls, and the beautiful Blue Pools of the Makarora River. After winding out of the pass, we detoured to the Cardrona Distillery to sample their excellent single malt whiskies, gins, and liqueurs. We finished the day with an exceptional sharing-style dinner at Kika in Wānaka, before heading to the Lake Hāwea Hotel for the night.

Wānaka is one of the South Island’s premier adventure hubs, so the next morning I decided to go skydiving. It was a crisp, crystal-clear day, offering breathtaking panoramas of Lake Wānaka, Lake Hāwea, and the snow-capped Southern Alps as the plane climbed to 15,000 feet.

My instructor, Andrew, and I exited the aircraft with a barrel roll, plunging into a thrilling 60-second freefall at 200 km/h before he deployed the parachute. We glided down to a soft landing on a farm just outside of town.

After a quick stroll around Wānaka, we drove toward Aoraki / Mount Cook. We checked into our hotel and immediately headed out for a boat excursion on Tasman Lake, the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier. It was surreal to cruise alongside floating icebergs and get an up-close view of the glacier’s towering ice face.

Following a somewhat mediocre dinner at the Alpine Restaurant, Lauren and I enjoyed cocktails at the Snowline Lounge, watching a spectacular pink sunset paint the face of Aoraki / Mount Cook. After a short nap, we woke up at midnight for a stargazing excursion in the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. Although the near-full moon made the sky relatively bright, we were still able to view the Southern Cross, Jupiter’s moons, and several distant globular clusters through the telescopes.

We began the next day at Mount Cook Airport, gearing up for a glacier heli-hike. A ski plane flew us high onto the Tasman Glacier, where we roped up and spent the day exploring a wild landscape of towering seracs, deep crevasses, and glowing blue ice caves.

The highlight of the day was exploring an active ice cave after lunch. We were able to delve pretty far inside, marveling at the ancient icicles and the deep sapphire hues of the glacier’s interior. After flying back to the airport, we grabbed our gear and drove to Queenstown. We had a delicious dinner at Toast & Oak, then headed to our lodgings at Trelawn Place—a cozy B&B with a stunning river setting, even if the decor was decidedly twentieth-century grandma.

Another early morning brought another scenic drive to Te Anau. A boat took us across the lake to the Te Anau Glowworm Caves. We walked through the roaring underground river caverns until we reached a silent, flooded chamber. Boarding a small boat, we floated into the pitch-black abyss, where the cave ceiling suddenly came alive with thousands of glowworms—innumerable blue-green points of light shining like a subterranean galaxy.

After lunch at the Ranch Bar & Grill in Te Anau, we drove another two hours to Milford Sound (Piopiotahi), stopping frequently to admire the roadside waterfalls on the spectacular Milford Road. As we neared the sound, a storm rolled in, draping the towering granite cliffs in mist. At the wharf, we boarded the Milford Mariner, a vessel designed to mimic a traditional trading scow. The rain set in as we set sail, but we didn’t mind—the downpour brought the sheer walls of the fiord to life with hundreds of temporary waterfalls cascading from the heights.

Later in the afternoon, we moored in Harrison Cove and hopped into a skiff for a naturalist-guided exploration of the cove’s unique ecosystem. Back on the Milford Mariner, I braced myself and took a quick, freezing plunge into the glacial waters of the sound. After a hot shower and a hearty dinner on board, we rocked to sleep.

We woke to the gentle rocking of the vessel heading out to sea. Over breakfast, we watched the ocean swells grow larger as we crossed the threshold of the sound into the open Tasman Sea, before the Milford Mariner turned around to re-enter the shelter of the fiord.

The rain had stopped, and the clouds parted to reveal bright blue skies. The timing was absolutely perfect: Milford’s temporary waterfalls disappear within hours of the rain stopping, so we got to witness the fiord in brilliant sunshine while it was still ringed with cascading torrents.

Back on land, we began the drive back to Queenstown, stopping to admire the Mirror Lakes along the way. After a quick rest at the hotel, we headed to the Shotover River for a thrilling ride on a jet boat—a shallow-draft vessel that skimmed over the rapids and spun through dizzying 360-degree turns. To unwind, we sampled some great beers at Searchlight Brewery, followed by an excellent dinner at Fino Restaurant & Wine Bar.

The next day, we fueled up with pastries from Fergbaker before boarding the historic TSS Earnslaw, a vintage steamship, to cross Lake Wakatipu. The vessel docked at Walter Peak High Country Farm. Although the farm is primarily a tourist attraction today, we enjoyed seeing the Highland cattle and watching a sheep-shearing demonstration (though it couldn’t quite compete with the one we saw in Argentinian Patagonia).

In the afternoon, we drove to the Gibbston wine region. We enjoyed a tasting of excellent Central Otago pinot noirs at Mount Rosa Winery and spent a lovely afternoon at the Church Cellar Door and Cafe. Afterward, we drove to Arrowtown, a charming gold-mining village just outside of Queenstown. Dinner was at Aosta, an exceptional Italian restaurant where I was served one of the finest steaks of the trip.

We spent the next morning exploring the shops and lakefront in Queenstown, followed by an early afternoon briefing for our upcoming trek. Afterward, we drove to Altitude Brewing for a tasting flight of their award-winning local beers.

In the early evening, we rode the Skyline Queenstown Gondola for panoramic views of the town and Lake Wakatipu. We chose to hike back down into town, grabbing a casual pizza dinner at Little Blackwood on the wharf. We then slipped into Bardeaux for a cozy nightcap, enjoying some of the best-crafted cocktails of the trip.

Early the next morning, we boarded the trail bus, retracing our route to Te Anau for a quick breakfast. Another hour’s drive brought us to The Divide, the official trailhead of the Routeburn Track—one of New Zealand’s Great Walks.

The trail starts by winding upward through lush silver beech forest. About a mile and a half in, we reached the detour for Key Summit, a steep but rewarding climb that opens up to spectacular, panoramic views of the alpine peaks and valleys.

We descended to the shores of Lake Howden for lunch, then continued past the towering, 174-meter Earland Falls to the pristine basin of Lake Mackenzie. Since we were trekking with Ultimate Hikes, we spent a comfortable night at the lovely Mackenzie Lodge. All told, our first day’s hike covered 14 kilometers (8.7 miles) with 800 meters (2,600 feet) of elevation gain.

From Lake Mackenzie, the trail climbs steeply for about 3 kilometers (2 miles) and 275 meters (900 feet), rewarding us with breathtaking views of the lake basin, surrounding peaks, and the deep Hollyford Valley below. The track then flattens out, traversing the dramatic ledges of the Hollyford Face. We stopped for lunch at Harris Shelter, then climbed partway up Conical Hill for a viewpoint over Lake Harris. Unfortunately, thick alpine fog rolled in, obscuring our views of the valleys beyond the lake and making further ascent pointless.

The trail then descended for 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) to Routeburn Falls, the site of our lodge for the night. We spent the evening socializing with fellow hikers and enjoying a delicious salmon dinner. The day’s hike totaled 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) and 800 meters (2,600 feet) of elevation gain.

On the final day of the trek, the remaining trail was entirely downhill. A scenic lookout along the way offered a breathtaking vista of the wide, grassy Routeburn Flats below. The trail then wound down to the valley floor, where we stopped for lunch. The final stretch was a gentle, flat walk alongside the crystal-clear Routeburn River to the end of the track. Day three was a relaxed 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) with a 450-meter (1,500-foot) descent.

The bus was waiting for us at the end of the track (Routeburn Shelter). We stopped at the historic Glenorchy Hotel pub for celebratory beers and snacks before continuing on to Queenstown. That evening, we had an excellent dinner at The Bunker (I enjoyed the scallops) to celebrate our last night in New Zealand, and returned to Bardeaux for one final cocktail before calling it a night.

The next morning, we flew from Queenstown to Auckland, then caught our long flight back home to San Francisco, bringing an incredible adventure to a close.